March 21, 2025
The relief and satisfaction of getting bags on bike was slightly soured by how I was already behind schedule by about 2 hours. But, out of all days to have a late wheels on ground, today was definitely Rank 1. While I had 105 km planned, it was the flattest day scheduled with 230 m total elevation gain to my first tour stop, just past Nakasendo Post Town #12 倉賀野宿 Kuraganoshuku in 高崎 Takasaki, 7 km into 群馬県 Gunma Prefecture. This was going to be a very urban and residential day, riding clear out of Tokyo and entirely through Saitama Prefecture.
Some of my frustrations and trip-related unease from the previous day were smoothed by the beautiful weather (full sun, in the 50s F) and a tip from Ben that I could charge my camera via micro USB directly, instead of using a standalone battery charger. Blogging has its perks! I wouldn’t have to ration my three batteries!
Departing 日本橋 Nihonbashi, I already had to pee and still hadn’t eaten breakfast, but was eager to at least start ticking away some of the kilometers.
As promised, Tokyo riding was either ride the sidewalk with pedestrians, or ride the marked share the road. Seeing Suits-san ride the road with his e-mamachari made me comfortable in also doing so. Though most people did opt to ride the sidewalk (probably because they only riding on it a block or so at a time), I observed speedier people riding the road. Since it was business hours, there was a bit of dodging load/unload traffic, but with speed limits of 50 kph and very aware drivers, it didn’t once feel sketchy.
Two roadies passed me and gave me a nod. With the many stoplights I kept up with them for a little bit until they dropped me. While waiting for yet another light, I decided at about an hour in, it was a good time to stop. As I looked around, right next to me was a public bathroom and a Lawson. Amaze! I locked to a railing and made my first stop. 10:45 a.m.
At this point I actually had yet to reach my first Nakasendo post station, located 11 km in (to give you an idea of my snail’s pace), or really see anything Nakasendo-related. I decided to settle in for an hour and try to get to the border of Saitamaken before my next stop.
My Garmin notified me that I was about to reach my first post station, Itabashi. Looking around, I still didn’t see much reference to Nakasendo but it was not a coincidence that these couple blocks seemed to be of daily importance.
I reached a bridge crossing a wide river, and knew I was about to cross into Saitama! 12:03 p.m.
Quickly after entering Saitama, I arrived at Second Post Station Warabishuku 蕨宿 and here there was plenty of Nakasendo stuff to see! I took a couple minutes off the bike to walk around and eat the rest of my steamed bread. 12:26 pm
Getting back on the bike, it didn’t take me long to realize I needed to do some bonk precautions, and fast. My steamed bread wasn’t going to fuel me much longer. I pulled off and searched for a public bathroom and konbini combo, locating one by the nearest train station on route. I headed there and bought an absolute platter of snacks. 1:14 pm
With some sugar digested, my brain was less doom and gloom about my meager progress. I still had almost 80k to go, but had 5 good hours of sun left. I pushed on. Getting back on the road, I was sad that I wouldn’t have time to stop at the famous Musashi Ichinomiya Hikawa Shrine 大宮氷川神社. Glancing at the cars that passed me, I noticed that many had 大宮 Oomiya registrations, instead of the various Tokyo registrations. As I rode over the next two hours, 熊谷 Kumagaya plates started to slowly fade in, reassuring me that I was making not only good progress on my route, but in fact, making good progress regionally across Kantou and Honshu.
I went through an area (鴻巣) that clearly had pride in being on Nakasendo. From impressive granite signposts (with very helpful directional diagrams), to more of a community-brewed utility pole sticker treatment, I enjoyed finding these breadcrumbs. 3:32 p.m.
At around 60k, Old Nakasendo 旧中山道 split off from the main road and turned into a bike trail running along the Arakawa. Along the trail for miles, were blooming yellow spring flowers, I think which are rapeseed (canola) 菜の花. Slightly fragrant and waving gently, the flower path gave me a much needed break from car traffic. In good spirits, I sped on, unhindered by stop signs or traffic. I even took a selfie! 3:50 p.m.
The endorphins from the bike trail wore off quickly as I returned to the road with about 2 hours of daylight and 40 km left. I was definitely going to be doing some riding after dark. It was also around this time I realized my Garmin screen brightness was set at 100%. Oops.
Went through many paved treatment options in quick succession:
Decided to fuel again before dark, so chugged some apple juice from a vending machine and made a stop at FamilyMart for a pork steamed bun (¥148), a mango juicebox (¥164) and a bag of HiChew gummies (¥164). 35k left. 4.38 p.m.
Right around when I turned my lights on, my Garmin beeped a low battery warning. I saved what I had so far and hit record again.
Riding in the dark is not my favorite. Maybe my night vision is worse than other people’s, or maybe I’m fearful of jumpscares. With 15 km to go, I just tried to take it slow and steady. Getting a flat now would suck.
Leaving my Garmin backlight still on 0%, I squinted at the screen whenever I passed under a light. Since I was riding between towns now with less urban sprawl, these lights too were fewer between. Navigation was simple though, I was following the road straightshot to the northwest to the guesthouse.
Despite the simple navigation, there were still moments where I wasn’t sure where I was supposed to go on bike. Riding unknown roads in the dark made me a little panicked, but it’s amazing how calming the knowledge that the infrastructure has been built with non-vehicle users in mind is. I wasn’t going to be spit onto a dangerous, high-speed freeway (may have accidentally almost rode onto 35W one time in Minneapolis), and all bridges were going to be pedestrian friendly. Japan wasn’t about to leave me stranded somewhere as a cyclist.
After almost an hour of night riding, I made it to the guesthouse, Sunpoya! I had emailed the owner letting him know my ETA a couple hours ago, so as I walked into the cafe on the first floor and said hello, he said warmly from behind the counter that he had been waiting for my arrival. The cafe was cute, with two women eating at one of the tables. 6:58 p.m.
The owner, Nagata-san, showed me around. The guesthouse was above the curry cafe, which he had opened 7 years earlier. The guesthouse was in its second year. The common room had a cozy seating area with a kotatsu table, kitchen, powder room and bathroom. The bunks were separated into men’s and women’s dorms. I was the only guest for the night, as it was still early in the season. Nagata-san told me that most of his Nakasendo guests were Japanese walkers, who walked a portion of Nakasendo during the weekend and took years to walk the entire route. He said he was trying to set up Airbnb since it seemed that international guests preferred it, but hadn’t figured out how to yet. He was very curious to talk more, but left me to settle in.
After changing into sweatshirt and leggings, I went back downstairs and sat at the counter. Out of the 3 curries on today’s menu, I went with Nagata-san’s recommendation, the shrimp curry. He makes all the curry himself, as well as the cheesecake. Since I had had konbini food all day, real food was amazing!
Nagata-san clearly loved craft beer, judging by his beer offerings, so we talked about the Minneapolis beer scene, and showing him the Google Maps results of “breweries” in Minneapolis, he was fascinated.
Three of Nagata-san’s friends came by to hang out, it was a Friday night afterall. I started talking to one of his friends, who was alarmed that I was riding my bicycle to Kyoto through Nagano Prefecture. He seemed concerned for my well-being, as he had gone to university in Kyoto and had a friend once ride his bike to visit him at home and had to be picked up by a truck in somewhere in Nagano-ken. He told me as of right now, I could just take the train. I couldn’t tell if the alarm was a Japanese person worried about riding in the mountains this early in the season, or just the fact that anyone would consider riding a bicycle for that long. I decided it was the latter and showed him the live roadcams from the Nagano government showing clear roads free of snow. Nagata-san was much more familiar with the Nakasendo route (he advertises his guesthouse for Nakasendo travelers after all), and brought out a Walking the Nakasendo guidebook. We talked a little about my route for tomorrow with two passes, one in particular which is well-known. The friend urged Nagata-san to provide me with an energy drink (lol) for the climb.
It was past 10 pm, so I excused myself to take a shower and go to sleep. Since I was going to be setting off early, Nagata-san told me how to self check out. As a thank you, I gave him and friend a small Trader Joe’s chocolate easter egg variety pack which they were super happy with, and Nagata-san gave me some shop stickers as a thank you for the thank you.
Took a nice hot shower, set out clothes for tomorrow and fell asleep easily in the warm futon style bedding to the quiet sounds of Nagata-san’s friends playing guitar downstairs.
Numbers
Konbini stops: 3
Vending machines: 1
Distance: 105 km / 65 miles
Elevation gain according to Garmin: 226 m / 741 ft
Elapsed time: 9 hours, 1 minute
Moving time: 6 hours, 21 minutes
Moving average: 16.6 kph / 10.3 mph
Weather: Low 43 F / High 63 F, sunny!
Mechanicals: 0!
Passes: 0
Nakasendo post towns: 12, #0 Nihonbashi 日本橋 ➝ #12 Kuraganoshuku 倉賀野宿
Accommodation: Guesthouse/Hostel, ¥3500 + ¥100 towel rental
atsuko's day 
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